The Richness of Reno’s – Big Buildings Getting Fixed Up

When I lived in Montreal I would occasionally walk through Notre-Dame-Des-Neiges Cemetery to get over the mountain. At one point they were blasting close to the older plots. Many of the majestic tombstones were supported with various lengths of lumber and wire, and wrapped in translucent plastic for protection. The light from the setting sun glowed through the plastic, creating a hazy silhouette around the stone monuments. I was struck by how the temporary protective materials seemed to suggest the rich fleetingness of human life, adding to the tombstone’s raison d’être. I wound up adapting the effect for the graveyard scene in a production of Spring Awakening by Frank Wedekind.

Spring Awakening graveyard scene
Spring Awakening graveyard scene

Now what has all that got to do with biking in Ottawa/Outaouais? Well, ever since then I’ve been fascinated by the juxtaposition of temporary protective cladding around structures as they are being renovated, and right now there are a few extensive renovations happening in town, so I headed off to check them out. Here’s how.

First stop, the National Gallery, where they have just recently begun replacing the glass in the Great Hall. Here are views from both the outside and the inside of the Gallery.

Out looking in
Out looking in

View from inside the Great Hall
In looking out.

Second stop – the West Block on Parliament Hill.

West Block partially wrapped
West Block partially wrapped

They’ve got interpretive panels on the hoarding with information on the renovations, and a QR code you can scan which takes you to this site with even more info.

Here’s a night time view from New Years Eve.

West Block ay night
West Block at night

On the other side of Wellington renovations are happening to this building as well.

Renorenoreno...
Renorenoreno…

Right beside it sits the Press Club building which is wrapped up in a brown fabric.

That's a wrap!
Press club -that’s a wrap!

Helmet Hunting!

Last week an essential component of my bike helmet snapped in the cold, so on Sunday morning I set out in search of a new one. Armed with great advice from friends in Twittersphere, I consulted the list of local bike shops on the Capital VéloFest links page and chose as many I felt confident I could get to within a 1-1/2 hour ride, stops included. Many shops were closed Sunday morning which eliminated a few along the way. Here’s how it panned out.

First stop, Tommy & Lefebvre on Bank Street. No helmets. Still in ski mode.

Next stop, Kunstadt Sports on Bank. Slim pickings, none of which fit. The helpful fellow serving me promised more would be arriving within the next two weeks. He also suggested some folks use ski helmets in the winter because of the built in ear warmers. Interesting concept. I’ve become accustomed to the versatility of using a balaklava when required.

On my way west towards Wellington I was happy to discover this nicely packed footpath through Commissioners Park beside Dow’s Lake. Perfectly fine for biking as long as you are prepared to hop off and walk your bike on the side of the trail when encountering pedestrians coming the other way. Following this packed path allowed me to avoid biking down a good length of dangerous Carling Avenue.

Path through Commisioners Park
Path through Commisioners Park

Sherwood Avenue, which cuts diagonally through the Civic Hospital neighbourhood, is lined with impressive big old houses. In contrast, this more recent interesting design at Sherwood and Fairmount caught my eye. Love how it conforms to its angled property. The choice of exterior materials is also interesting, particularly the glazed plywood panels. I’m guessing the panels are designed to be easily removed should they require replacing, as glazed ply doesn’t always age nicely in our climate.

Modern house
Modern house

Next shop stop – Fresh Air Experience on Wellington. Again, limited selection as they too are still in ski mode. The fellow serving me did manage to retrieve a couple of Bell helmets from the basement which fit, however the slim pickings were making me contemplate putting off my helmet hunt until the spring. Then I got to … BUSHTUKAH!

Selection of helmets at Bushtakah (lots on the floor too)
Selection of helmets at Bushtukah (lots on the floor too)

Great selection of helmets, from some on sale to newly arrived models in the pricier range. I liked the fit and price of this Giro model, and this Bell model.

Giro vs Bell
Giro vs Bell

One more stop on my itinerary – Mountain Equipment Co-op. I was pleased to discover they have a fine selection as well. Not as extensive as down the street, but still lots to choose from. They definitely have the best selection of funky helmets, such as these shown below. I tried a black one on but it didn’t quite fit. Many others were equally as comfortable as those I tried on at Bushtakah, but none matched in price.

Fun MEC helmets
Fun MEC helmets

Kudo’s to MEC for keeping their bike racks cleared of snow.

MEC bike racks
MEC bike racks

I headed back to Bushtukah…..

Bushtakah bike racks
Bushtakah bike racks

In the end I chose the Bell helmet – equally comfortable to the Giro, and slightly more comfortably priced at $32. Wore it on my ride back along Scott Street and arrived home pleased as punch with my purchase.

Lowertown bike links

This is my first season winter biking in our Nation’s Capital. Shortly after the first few accumulations of snow I realised our fantastic local network of bike paths is geared towards the summertime recreational cyclist versus the all season bike commuter. That’s because, apart from a few routes like the Laurier bike lanes, most bike paths aren’t cleared. As such, I have found myself riding down treacherous roads which I wouldn’t dare bike along even in the summer. So I was encouraged when I read about Craig Daveys successful attempts to clear short bike path links in Lowertown through his often humourous ‘Meet me halfway’ email correspondence with the city, which he describes here. That was back in mid January. (UPDATE May 2014 – The link has disappeared, but the benevolence of his lane clearing spirit lives on).Today I chose a route that took me along most of those bike path links mentioned in his emails, as identified by the blue markers on the map below. Red markers are interesting buildings I clicked along the way.

Lowertown is filled with wonderful old two and three story dwellings like this.

Les Appartements Guiges
Les Appartements Guiges

As you can see, the first section of bike path at Guiges and Dalhousie described in Craig Davey’s correspondence unfortunately hasn’t received recent attention from local shovelers or the city sidewalk plow.

Guiges and Dalhousie
Guiges and Dalhousie

At 158 Guiges sits this interesting dwelling partially constructed with big old square timbers.

Square timbers - that's really old!
Square timbers – that’s really old!

The second section of path at St Andrew and King Edward HAS been kept clear! Why someone chose to interpret it as a parking spot, even with signs saying don’t do that? I dunno.

St Andrew and King Edward
St Andrew and King Edward

Lowertown has historically been a workers neighbourhood, as described in stories like Angel Square by Brian Doyle, and represented by the few remaining dwellings those residents built and lived in. A selection of these are slated to be demolished to make way for a new Claridge Homes condo development in an area called the wedge, defined by King Edward Avenue, St Patrick St and the Rideau River. That is not to the liking of the authors of a report titled ‘Lowertown East, Our Disappearing Heritage’.

The Gauvreau Rowhouse shown below is one of those buildings, ironically being used by Claridge as their sales centre.

Gauvreau Rowhouse
Gauvreau Rowhouse

Around the other side on St Andrew Street sit these two condemned dwellings which are described in the above mentioned report as important to preserving the working class heritage of Lowertown. The buildings now sit empty and abandoned while Claridge banners hang triumphantly from temporary flag poles on the corners of each of the properties.

Doomed houses on St Andrew
Doomed houses on St Andrew

Path link at St Andrew and St Patrick – CLEARED!

St Andrew and St Patrick
St Andrew and St Patrick

This Rather well preserved building sits at the corner of Cumberland and Bruyère. It was originally constructed as a store in 1862, which I’m guessing explains the big corner entrance.

Rather stunning building
Rather stunning building

The final Lowertown bike path link at Cumberland and Bruyère wasn’t cleared. Here’s hoping Craig Davey’s generous spirit and good intentions provides encouragement to make bike commuting safe throughout snowfalls to come.

Cumberland and Bruyère
Cumberland and Bruyère

Here are couple of other glorious old buildings along Dalhousie with truncated corners.

Good old buildings along Dalhousie
Good old buildings along Dalhousie

I made a final stop at Stubbe chocolatier on Dalhousie. A friend told me it was the best in town, and Carla is a chocoholic.

Stubbe

Biking to Arts Court

Arts Court is a very important facility for local artists and art lovers. Located right downtown in the old court house, it sits on a small plot of land encircled by four busy streets that aren’t particularly velo friendly. So, how do you bike there? Here’s a route I took this weekend to attend a rehearsal for Third Wall Theatre’s production of God of Carnage, with a pit stop at Mags & Fags on Elgin Street.

Cooper is a quiet one way street heading east from Bronson as far as the canal. Most of the houses along the street between Bronson and Kent date back to the late 1800’s, like these two well preserved gems.

Funky Mural & Fancy Molding
Funky Mural & Fancy Molding

Here’s the view looking down Cooper from Bay Street.

Looking down Cooper St
Looking down Cooper St

The Czech embassy is at 251 Cooper and described in this Urbsite post.

After stopping off at Mags&Fags I biked a few blocks north up Elgin, a busy bike-able street with lots of pedestrians keeping it civilized. I then crossed the Mackenzie King Bridge which has bike lanes hugging the inside meridian like so.

Bike lanes along Mackenzie King Bridge
Bike lanes along Mackenzie King Bridge

But then the bike lane suddenly ends on the other side of the bridge when it reaches Waller Street.

Screeeech!!.....?
Screeeech!!…..?

Waller is a very nasty road. Not only is it lacking any shoulder or bike lane, it is filled with transport trucks who use it as an awkward winding link through downtown from the Queensway to King Edward Avenue to the bridge over the Ottawa River. I suggest avoiding it all together by going over to the sidewalk on the left and walking your bike along the well trodden path to the Arts Court parking lot, as per the photo below. By doing so you can catch a glimpse of the back of the old jail, the building behind the tall stone wall. It is now a youth hostel. The boarded up arched opening beneath the pediment was where they publicly hung condemned prisoners, the wall being just tall enough so onlookers would avoid seeing the dangling body. I know – freaky.

Back of the old jail
Back of the old jail

Down through the driveway brings you to the entrance of the wonderful Arts Court.

Arts Court
Arts Court

Clemow Avenue

Clemow Avenue is a unique street within the Glebe. It was supposed to become a grand avenue linking the Queen Elizabeth Driveway along the canal to the Experimental Farm but never quite got that far. More about it’s interesting history in this post. Yesterday I had a meeting on Clemow Avenue so I biked there. Here’s how.

These two houses, most likely identical at birth, have really taken on their own personality over the years.

Twins!
Twins!

This house at 170 Clemow was built in 1926 and is now the High Commission for Cameroon.

High Commission of Cameroon
High Commission of Cameroon

Here are a couple of other interesting houses along Clemow.

The Castle & The Cupola
The Castle & The Cupola

The eastern end of the street runs along Patterson Creek for a bit like so. When the canal is skate able the NCC usually clears the creek and installs a change shack a bit further east along Linden Terrace which would make for a fine bike & skate outing.

Patterson Creek
Patterson Creek

Clemow is a great street to bike down. It is nice and wide, there are traffic stopping planter boxes near Patterson Creek and no car access from Bronson. Unfortunately the bike lanes along Percy Street north of the Queensway aren’t cleared, requiring law abiding cyclists heading north to walk their bikes east to Bay Street.

Percy bike lanes in the winter
Percy bike lanes in the winter

Biking through a crazy snow day

Most days I would say winter biking is a safe venture, however yesterday was brutal. Along with having to negotiate snow piled up from previous storms yet to be cleared I rode through flurries to get to the Brian Kilrea Arena. I learned lots.

Pausing along Kilborn Avenue
Pausing along Kilborn Avenue

Here are a few things I discovered:
• Should have packed goggles.
• If it’s snowing, flashing lights front and back are a VERY good idea even in the middle of the day.
• Clothing with retro reflective bling is a good idea too.
• Most people these days think you are nuts to cycle in such conditions.
• I was forced to go down roads I would avoid in the summer, like the length of Bank Street between the canal and the Billings Bridge.
• I had to take the lane on many occasions – no choice. Fortunately every driver I encountered was good about it.
• Sometimes along extended stretches of road when I am taking the lane I’m OK with pulling over to let a line of cars pass, as I did somewhere of Kilborn. Within reason. Analogous to a tractor hauling huge bales of hay along a country road who sometimes pulls over for the same reason.
• It helps to be a bit familiar with which streets are slightly more travelled than others and, subsequently, are more likely to be cleared. Like Holmwood in the Glebe (cleared) vs 5th Avenue (not cleared, and impossible to ride down).

Now, why even try to bike in such conditions? Apart from actually wanting to for various reasons (health, environment, etc), folks who don’t have a choice, like those who forego owning a car and still have to commute, need to be able to ride through anything a car can. Here’s hoping these observations help. We have a ways to go.

This morning it was smooth sailing.

Biking to the Carlington Heights Ski Hill

Back in October I blogged a bit about the abandoned ski hill up at the Carlington Heights Reservoir. A friend mentioned he toboganned there with his kids so I decided to go check it out early this morning. Blue line is how I got there, orange is how I got back. Red is where I had to get off my bike and push.

It’s been awhile since I’ve gone for a ride at 6:30 am as I do in the summer. That’s because the combination of cold and darkness make my pillow simply irresistible. But this morning I gave it a shot. The thing that struck me the most as I saddled up was the dense hum of the morning city traffic, like that of a huge waterfall just a short ways off. Maybe it’s amplified by the wet roads, and perhaps in the summer it’s all muffled by the leaves on the trees.

I biked through the farm along the NCC Scenic Driveway like so.

NCC Scenic Driveway
NCC Scenic Driveway

On my way to the reservoir ski hill I happened upon another really steep toboggan hill at the top of Edgecliff Avenue.

Rated black diamond
Rated black diamond

To get to the very top of the reservoir I carried my bike up a steep incline and across a snowy plateau to be able to look out over the old ski hill like so. The toboggan run starts on the other side of the chain link fence.

Atop Carlinghton Heights Ski Hill
Atop Carlinghton Heights Ski Hill

Here is the top of the toboggan run. It’s pretty awesome, with built up snow jumps thrown in for good measure. It was so well used and packed that I managed to bike down the hill without sinking in.

Looking down the toboggan run
Looking down the toboggan run

Now THESE are one of the winter cyclists worst enemies – icy ruts on icy roads. They seem to thrive in the conditions we are experiencing, whereby accumulated packed snow turns to ice, and slightly warmer conditions allow the ruts to form. Even studded tires are defenceless against these suckers. Fortunately they are primarily found on side roads where there isn’t a lot of traffic. Best way to deal with these is to go nice and slow.

Icy rut
Icy rut

Skiing along a bit of the O-Train path and the Ottawa River Pathway

The O-Train path isn’t bikeable in the winter, but is it skiable? The other day I went to find out. Blue line shows where I biked to, orange is where I skied. UPDATE – Nov 2014: The path is now being cleared and salted from Young St to the train stop at Albert. Should still be able to ski along the side of the path for most of the distance described below, or just ride to the Albert station and start skiing from there.

I am really liking the bike&ski concept. Many cross country ski trails, inconvenient to get to by foot or car, are but a quick bike ride away! The new trail along the O-Train is accessible between Somerset and City Centre. I locked my bike to one of the recently installed lamp posts like so.

Parked between Somerset & City Centre
Parked between Somerset & City Centre

I headed south along pre-set tracks. It is possible to access Gladstone, as shown in the image below, however I decided to turn around and head north towards the river after realizing I wasn’t too keen on having to take off my skis to cross a few streets if I was to continue south.

Accessing Gladstone
Accessing Gladstone

The backs of the Department of Public Works building and City Centre are visible from the trail, suggesting they were designed to cater to the network of trains and tracks which dominated this area not so long ago. UPDATE – April 2015: The DPW building has been knocked down.

DPW Building
DPW Building
City Centre
City Centre

To continue along the path beyond the O-Train station at Scott Street requires climbing over two of these short 3-rung fences.

O-Train Station
O-Train Station

The path from the station to the river is plowed, but not sanded or salted, so pleasantly skiable.

Plowed part of trail
Plowed part of trail

The stamped letters atop the railway bridge across the river reads INCE OF WALES. Strange name, but it could work with a little P.R.

Ince of Wales Bridge
Ince of Wales Bridge

The Ottawa River Pathway had evidence of all sorts of winter loving traffic – snow shoes, ski tracks and a well worn pedestrian path. I followed it west.

Ottawa River Pathway in the winter
Ottawa River Pathway in the winter

At the entrance to Lemieux Island someone had broken trail along the jut of land beside the river, an area I had never explored before.

Trail along river before River Street
Trail along river before River Street

The ruins of the old Hintonburg Pumphouse are located on the edge of River Street. It was originally built in 1899 but succumbed to fire in 1989.

Hintonburg Pumphouse
Hintonburg Pumphouse

Someone has cut a huge opening in the chain link fencing surrounding the ruins, however I would heed the DANGER – UNSTABLE STRUCTURE signs and stay out, for the building is obviously unsafe as you can see.

Hintonburg Pumphouse ruins
Hintonburg Pumphouse ruins

I then retraced my strides back to my faithful steed, packed up my skis, and headed home. A wonderful winters outing indeed. Lemieux Island

First Nations

As I write, Chief Theresa Spence of Attiwapiskat is in her 23rd day of her hunger strike on Victoria Island halfway across the Ottawa River. The following press release re-iterating her cause was sent out on New Years Eve.

The entire National Capital Region is of significance to the First Nations as they were its occupants and guardians for thousands of years before Champlain visited in 1615. On Monday I toured a few sites and locations with specific reference to the First Nations. Here’s how.

First stop was the Odawa Friendship Centre on Stirling Avenue UPDATEThe Odawa Friendship Centre has moved to 250 City Centre Ave, The Centre’s mission is ‘To enhance the quality of life for Aboriginal people in the Capital region. To maintain a tradition of community, an ethic of self-help and development as well as to provide traditional teachings from our elders.’.

Odawa Friendship Centre
Odawa Friendship Centre

Around the side and back of the centre are the following murals.

mural1

Murals
Murals outside the Odawa Friendship Centre

Next stop, Victoria Island, or Asinabka. In the Algonquin language the word “Asinabka” means “place of glare rock”. It is considered a sacred site, where for thousands of years ceremonies and offerings have been made. Lots more on Asinabka here.

The cedar fence was constructed to house a summer interpretive program called Aboriginal Experiences. The tee-pee is where Chief Theresa Spence is holding her fast.

Asinabka
Asinabka

On the opposite side of the river at 10 Wellington in Gatineau are located the offices of Aboriginal Affairs and Northern Development Canada.

Indian Affairs and Northern Development
Indian Affairs and Northern Development

A bit further down river sits The Canadian Museum of Civilization, designed by architect Douglas Cardinal who is of Metis and Blackfoot heritage. His First Nations background is said to have greatly influenced his indigenous style of architecture, as described in this CBC radio interview.

Entrance to the Canadian Museum of Civilization
Entrance to the Canadian Museum of Civilization

Back over on the Ottawa side, behind the National Gallery, atop Nepean Point stands this statue of Champlain looking out over the Ottawa River. There used to be a bronze sculpture of a kneeling Anishinabe scout at the base of the plinth on which Champlain stands, but it was removed in 1996 at the request of Ovide Mercredi, former National Chief of the Assembly of First Nations. I did not know that the sculpture of the scout had been relocated to Majors Hill Park a short distance away.

Champlain
Champlain

Near the National Cenotaph is the Valiants Memorial made up of a number of sculptures of key figures from the military history of the country, including that of Thayendanegea or Joseph Brant, a Mohawk who supported the British during the American Revolution. He relocated to the area near the present day City of Brantford in southern Ontario after the revolution.

Thayendanegea
Thayendanegea

I then rode up behind Parliament Hill to photo the Ottawa River, the highway used by First Nations for millennia before more modern forms of transport took over, first by rail, and now by road and air. There is Victoria Island in the middle, with the Supreme Court on the cliff to the left.

Ottawa River
Ottawa River

My final stop was in Confederation Park where stands this monument ‘To Aboriginal War Veterans in Canada and to Those That Have Fallen’.

Monument to Aboriginal Veterans
Monument to Aboriginal Veterans

Biking to the Museum of Nature on a Sunday Morning

Yesterday was a wonderful day for a trip to the Museum of Nature.

After dropping off some books at the downtown library I biked along O’Connor to meet Carla and the kids at the museum. Now O’Connor is a street I would normally avoid as many drivers tend to zip down this one way street or impatiently jostle each other in their rush to get to the Queensway, but there isn’t much Ottawa traffic on Sunday mornings so I wasn’t too worried.

This view down O’Connor makes it appear as if bland mid-rise buildings dominate the street. This Urbsite post describes the boom in Centretown apartment building in the sixties that contributed to this image.

O'Connor Street
O’Connor Street

But tucked in in amongst these mid-risers are a number of jewels, such the City of Ottawa Public School Board’s old administrative building at the corner of Gilmour Street. Urbsite once again comes through with this post which not only describes the building, but the two big blue spruce flanking the entrance as well, and how this same entrance was incorporated into a logo used on Ottawa elementary school report cards in the’50’s.

Ottawa School Board building
Ottawa School Board building

As I closed in on my destination, Pleased with my safe journey along O’Connor, I was shocked to see this smashed up car at the corner of McLeod and O’Connor!

Fooled me. Very clever.
Fooled me. Very clever.

Right beside the faux crash site stand our faithful family of wooly mammoths that have been foraging on the grounds of the museum for as long as I can remember.

Wooly mammoths
Wooly mammoths

On the opposite side of the street sits this great sculpture called Paso Doble by Bruce Garner.

Paso Doble
Paso Doble

On the east side of the museum there are BIKE RACKS!

Yeah bike racks!
Yeah bike racks!

They’ve done a great job with the renovations to the museum. Here’s a view looking up from the old space into the new, of the gang looking down from the new into the old.

Old & New
Old & New

Rode home safely along Metcalfe and Somerset. A fine outing.